Mega Jul

Just bought a Mega Jul and really likes it: more control lowering their much heavier husband than with an ATC.

Uses a Mega Jul: costs a little more than an ATC but locks off and works much nicer.

Loves the Mega Jul for single pitch, but in guide mode it's hard on the elbows and rappelling has a ton of friction, so they carry an ATC Guide for multipitch.

The Mega Jul is very sensitive to the rope and carabiner: some ropes feed smoothly, others are a struggle.

Hates the Mega Jul: after one summer of use it's a paperweight and their elbows are happier.

Has a Mega Jul and a GriGri and prefers the Mega Jul for lead; never had an issue with it feeding smoothly.

Loves the Mega Jul: assisted braking, guide mode and super light, the most versatile device.

Now has a Mega Jul after their gear was stolen; it's good, but they prefer the Giga Jul.

Likes the Mega Jul as a good in-between of a GriGri and an ATC.

Used a Mega Jul for a couple of years: good until multipitch, where it's horrible for belaying from above.

The Mega Jul has become their preferred device: much lighter, assisted braking, double-strand raps, guide mode and a big rope range.

Has a Mega Jul alongside a Lifeguard and likes both.

Likes the Mega Jul: takes some getting used to, but a high-tech ATC with a semi-auto lock.

Absolutely loves their Mega Jul: semi-auto-blocks for everything from toprope to alpine; after two years of heavy use there's barely any wear.

Uses a Mega Jul since it fits their use case better than a GriGri.

Finds the Mega Jul and Giga Jul a pain to rappel with, so they flip it to ATC mode with an autoblock.

Uses their Mega Jul far more than any mechanical assisted braking device since they prefer multipitch.

Tried the Mega Jul for everything, but it's now only for single-pitch sport and indoors; awful for belaying from above.

Hates their Mega Jul for rappels: slow, jerky and takes effort to hold open after 10+ pitches.

Prefers the Mega Jul: the big thumb loop and no slippage while the climber hangs, but rappelling and guide mode are a pain and lowering takes finesse.

Uses it indoors and out; it excels at top-rope and lead belaying and is their number one device for both, though belaying from above needs the right setup.

“Having used the MegaJul for some time now in all settings from indoor to outdoor, here are a few helpful tidbits. It excels at top rope and lead belay.”

After a multi-pitch day, found rappelling on a 9.8 mm rope very jerky and awkward to control; will rappel with it flipped and a third hand, or use an ATC.

“Just finished a multi pitch day with the MegaJul. I did not like for rappelling on a 9.8 rope, very jerky and hard to get your thumb in just the right position, it sucked.”

Uses it for sport and multi-pitch: light, small, does everything, and the steel build should outlast aluminium devices. Lowering a hanging partner in guide mode is tricky, so they use an HMS workaround.

“Have been using the device both for sports climbing and multi-pitch routes. I really can do everything, is light and small. Due to the steel construction will last longer”

Uses it for everything: perfect for teaching new belayers on top rope, good for lead, fine for rappel, though rappelling with the brake assist engaged is an arm workout.

“I use the jul for everything..... Its perfect for top rope chill days when youre teaching new people to belay, gives a good lead belay IMO. Does the job for rappel.”

Has used it since 2018 three days a week at the gym without needing a replacement; it replaced a worn ATC and a GriGri they disliked for lead, and feels second nature.

“I've been using the megajul since 2018 now, and I haven't had to replace it even climbing 3 days a week at a gym.”

Sold it for being too grabby even on a new 9.5 mm rope; holding it open while lead belaying tires the shoulder over a full day, though it locks reliably.

“Too grabby! And no, not old thick ropes. Pretty new 9,5mm single rope Mammut Infinity. When lead belaying, it tires your shoulder when beeing a full day at a crag.”

Over a year in, finds it simple and easy to teach, with feeding slack to a leader more natural than on an ATC.

“I’ve used mine for over a year now and it’s super easy to teach others to use, I actually find that giving slack to a leader is more natural on a mega jul than an atc.”

Not a fan of theirs: more complicated and grabby than competitors, and a BD ATC runs thick ropes more smoothly.

“have a mega jul and not a fan, its more complicated and grabby than its competition in my opinion. BD ATC flows a lot better with thick ropes”

After four years theirs shows hardly any wear; barely heavier than a Reverso but far more durable.

“The Megajul is not much heavier but lasts much longer. I’ve had mine for 4 years and shows hardly any wear.”

Rappelling on the Mega Jul sucks either way: autolocking locks far too hard and is janky to lower, and in normal mode it's nearly impossible to unlock to ascend a bit.

Always uses the Mega Jul for lead belaying and carries an ATC-Guide for belaying the second and rappelling.

Used the Mega Jul for two years before switching to a DMM Pivot; never found it smooth, and it varied too much with rope diameter: thin ropes didn't lock, thick ones locked too easily.

Likes the feel of lead belaying with the Mega Jul, but it severely kinks almost any rope when lowering a partner.

Has a Mega Jul and finds the ATC function doesn't work properly: you can't take in rope when it's blocked.

Likes their Mega Jul after lots of use; it has worked well with every rope from 10.0 to 9.2 mm except one very fuzzy old 10.0, though they prefer an old Verso for rappelling.

Mega Jul is their primary device and they're Mega Jul all the way, while still happy to use a GRIGRI when a partner prefers.

Has tried many belay devices and nothing feeds slack as badly as the Mega Jul, especially for a nervous high-clipper.

Just got a Mega Jul and finds it works fine for single-pitch sport and abseiling.

Familiar with both, thinks the Mega Jul kind of sucks: flimsy with small loops.

Very happy with the Mega Jul: it does almost everything and is simple and light, locking right away on falls with a 10 mm rope; lowering and rappelling take practice and it can lock up if you slow too much.

Team Mega Jul: light and does everything, though modes like guide mode take time to figure out and rappelling is jerky.

Loves their Mega Jul, small enough that people don't realise it's assisted; took a couple of sessions to lower smoothly, and it scratches up the carabiner.

Bought a Mega Jul because lowering on thinner ropes with a GRIGRI was a pain; super light.

Recently bought a Mega Jul and loves it; lowering is a bit funky but got the hang of it after a few lowers.

In love with the Mega Jul for single-pitch top rope and lead, but finds it too finicky and jerky for rappelling, so carries an ATC.

Loves their Mega Jul and takes it everywhere.

Didn't like the Mega Jul much with their old rope and found guide mode didn't work, but with new 8.3 mm coated half ropes the handling was amazing in every mode.

Their one gripe with the Mega Jul is guide mode, which is tiring especially with extra friction in the system.

Uses the Mega Jul all the time and it completely locks on their 9.8 mm rope.

Finds the Mega Jul harsh on ropes: after a few lowers they could see fraying of a 10.3 gym rope's sheath.

Rappelled on their original Mega Jul: it locked fine but releasing it enough to move takes a lot of thumb force; still uses it for belaying.

Rappelling four 60 m lengths on the Mega Jul was so hard to release that they switched to a Munter; fine for belaying.

Likes the Mega Jul for belaying but struggles lowering a heavier partner smoothly, so they ask for an ATC.

The Mega Jul is their first device for belaying a follower and it feels like a chore with so much friction; they really want to like it.

Finds the Mega Jul superior to a standard ATC in nearly every respect, though jerky on rappel.

Owns both and recommends the GRIGRI 2 over the Mega Jul: it locks up too easily, gives more rope burn and needed a thick carabiner.

The Mega Jul is fine for single pitch, but the effort to bring up a second in guide mode means they rarely use it now.

Bought a Mega Jul after learning to lead and loves it, though finding the lowering sweet spot is a little tricky.

Really liked their Mega Jul despite its tricky lowering.

Loves their Mega Jul and would definitely recommend it.

Racks the Mega Jul for long multi-pitch days because its stainless steel heats up much less than aluminium on long fast rappels, but finds it leaves a lot to be desired in guide mode.

The Mega Jul is their go-to for sport climbing: assisted braking plus Reverso-style use, and lowering a partner is fine.

Used the Mega Jul as the brake on their first double-rope multi-pitch: it works, auto-locks and lets them feed rope as fast as they can pull, but found it too annoying to rappel with, so switched to a guide-mode device.

After using both, finds the Mega Jul pays out slack better than the Mammut Smart, so prefers it when following, but isn't fully happy with it and is considering going back to an ATC-Guide.

Found the Mega Jul problematic when paying out slack, at least with thicker ropes, and prefers their Mammut Smart Alpine.

Bought the Mega Jul to skip a rappel backup; rappelling in autoblock mode is a pain, but they still always pick it over their Reverso and recommend it.

Loves their Mega Jul: works with twin ropes, belays from the top with assisted braking, all-steel construction and good value with the included carabiner.

Warns that rappelling on the Mega Jul in locked mode is really hard work and it's the worst device they've used for belaying a second in guide mode, though it does work as advertised.

Finds the Mega Jul does everything but takes getting used to; great for lead belaying, but one of the worst for guide-mode belaying because of the extra friction, and long locked rappels need shoulders of steel.

The Mega Jul is now their preferred single-pitch sport device, doing lead belaying and (unlocked) rappelling well, though they leave it at home for multi-pitch.

Always uses the Mega Jul to belay the second and finds it works exactly like a Reverso once you learn the right orientation.

Prefers the Mega Jul for its versatility over the similar ATC-Pilot.

Uses the Mega Jul and really likes it: light, very good for belaying heavier people, and after five years it shows almost no wear; works better with Edelrid ropes than some, as Trango ropes catch and are hard to pay out.

Having used most devices, votes for the Mega Jul overall: not the best at anything but without serious downsides, and the best for rappelling.

Didn't like the Mega Jul and it now sits unused: it locked up too easily when paying slack, they disliked the lowering method, and rappelling felt horribly jerky.

Used the Mega Jul exclusively for a year: it's just fine, doing everything but nothing really well; more friction than they'd like in guide mode and feeding, and rappelling is a bit jerky; with 8.5 mm ropes it doesn't fully lock.

Agrees the Mega Jul is fine but not great; with a 9.8 rope it still feeds OK, and they use it more than their ATC while hoping to find something better.

Uses the Mega Jul exclusively over their GRIGRI in the gym on fat ropes; it weighs almost nothing.

Had a Mega Jul but abandoned it because it was so frustrating to use with half ropes.

Preferred the lighter Mega Jul until the keeper loop pulled out of theirs.

Struggled to lead belay with a GRIGRI; uses the Mega Jul and loves it, it feels much smoother and handles twin ropes.

Owns the Mega Jul and the Alpine Up; finds the Alpine Up better in every way except weight.

Has a Mega Jul; needs care with new rope and carabiner combinations, but would usually rather lead belay with it than a GRIGRI.

Has used the Mega Jul for years and finds it perfect for everything except guide mode, where pulling rope through is a workout.

Usually rappels with the Mega Jul flipped and used like a Reverso, with a prusik for backup, because that is much smoother than its assisted-braking mode.

“I only rappel with the Mega Jul in ABD mode by accident. Usually I prefer to flip it around, have the loop facing my side and use it like an ATC/reverso.”

Finds a carabiner through the nose the smoothest way to rappel on the Mega Jul in assisted mode; the thumb loop is a jerky mess, though skinny ropes may be fine with the thumb loop.

“Definitely the smoothest way to rap with the megajul in abd mode. Thumb loop ends up being a jerky mess.”

Has rappelled on a Mega Jul in assisted-braking mode for years using the thumb loop.