belay device
Category
Belay device
Type
Assisted braking
Key specs
7.1–10 mm ropes; assisted braking can be switched on or off
Material
Steel, polyamide
Weight
—

In their experience the Giga Jul is more sensitive to rope diameter and carabiner choice, so pulling rope through can take more effort.

mixed

No longer carries an ATC and uses a Giga Jul plus GRIGRI; the Jul rappels nicer in manual mode, but checking its mode sliders in the dark is a faff.

mixed

Loves the Giga Jul: not the best at everything but does almost everything, from gym and sport to ice and alpine; always comes back to it after using most devices.

positivesmooth belaying

Finds the Giga Jul in autoblock poor for lead belaying, but awesome for rappelling, belaying from the top and tube-belaying a leader.

mixed

Uses the Giga Jul with a partner of different weight; it's fine, but guide mode is a pain to release for a mid-pitch lower.

mixed

Vouches for the Giga Jul as a great, very versatile device, while noting it's assisted rather than auto braking.

positive

Absolutely adores their Giga Jul and carries it on every pitch; a little sticky paying out slack at first but you get used to it right away.

positive

Uses the Giga Jul as their primary device but warns it doesn't lock up very hard with some rope and carabiner combinations, so not for inexperienced belayers.

mixed

Enjoys the Giga Jul for sport climbing but not for multipitch; a standard tube rappels smoother with less tangling.

mixed

Raps in assist mode on 8.5 mm dry ropes and doesn't find two-strand rappels jerky. On a single line it locks fine on an old 9.8 mm, okay on 8.5 mm with enough rope weight and not at all on 8.1 mm, so they test before relying on it.

“On my old fuzzy 9.8 mm it locks fine on a single line, locks okay on my 8.5 mm with enough rope weight, and absolutely does not lock on my 8.1 mm.”
mixed

Now belays with a Jul² for lead and a Giga Jul for top rope; has also led on the Giga Jul but thinks it may be one of the worst devices for that.

mixed

A guide-mode tube device is their preferred rig, and the Giga Jul covers assisted braking, guide mode and two-strand rappels in one; lowering from a top belay is harder than with a GRIGRI.

positive

Always carries their own tube device and prefers the Giga Jul because one device covers assisted-braking lead belays, guide-mode belays from above and double-strand rappels; rigging a GRIGRI for single-strand rappels is a deal breaker for them.

“For me the Edelrid GigaJul is preferable because it does assisted breaking lead belay, guide mode top rope and double strand rappel all in one device.”
positive