NEOX

Tried the NEOX for top rope after years on a GRIGRI and found the difference in drag very noticeable; would switch if they roped up more than they boulder.

Finds paying out more than one arm length of slack slightly more annoying on the NEOX than on a GRIGRI, because it easily locks after the first arm length and has to be unlocked.

“I find giving out more than one arm length of slack slighty more annoying than on the Grigri. It's easy to run into the blocking feature after the first arm length and then you have to unlock it”

Finds the NEOX feeds slack like butter thanks to its rolling wheel, but notes catches can be longer because more rope pays out, and would keep a GRIGRI for a belayer already good on one.

“The Neox inherently pays out more slack, and quicker, because of the rolling center wheel. It feeds out slack like butter.”

A 5'2" belayer with negative ape index and a heavier, taller partner owns both a GRIGRI and a NEOX; the NEOX is their favourite and feels smoother, though they get on fine with the GRIGRI too.

“We’ve got a GriGri and a Neox. Neox is def my fave for belaying, I find it smoother too.”

Belays a tall, fast-clipping friend tube-style on the NEOX and very rarely short-ropes them; prefers it to gripping a GRIGRI's cam.

“For my part, I very rarely short rope because I belay with a tube style motion on the Neox. I don’t love the idea of gripping the GriGri cam”

Loves their NEOX: started on an ATC, borrowed their lead instructor's NEOX and now uses it for top rope, lead, rappelling, everything.

Tried both and prefers the NEOX; with thicker ropes the newer GRIGRI felt like it had a ton of drag.

Loves the NEOX for lead belaying; as a left-handed belayer, lead belaying on a GRIGRI didn't appeal.

Much prefers the NEOX, having learned on a tube: it is less grabby, but feeding a lot of slack quickly needs good timing or the cam engages.

“It is less grabby but if you want to feed a lot of slack quickly you will need to time it correctly otherwise the cam will engage and it will be annoying.”

Testing it when it came out, found the NEOX slightly more likely to give longer falls or not catch with slack in front of the device, though no worse than assisted tube devices.

“In my testing when it came out I found it is slightly more likely to produce longer falls or not catch when there's slack in front of the device.”

Has used both: the NEOX is more forgiving when paying out slack, but they suspect it might not lock on its own if a fall catches them off guard, where a GRIGRI feels bomber.

“Neox - more forgiving at giving slack, one doesn't have to be flawless and it still works. I can imagine that the device may not lock on its own in case of uncaught fall.”

Likes the NEOX for top rope but prefers a GRIGRI for lead: paying out slack on a friend's NEOX felt choppy, good for unexpected falls but not for sudden high clips.

“Especially with giving slack, it felt like the neox was a bit more choppy, which is nice if you’re falling unexpectedly but not ideal if you’re suddenly high clipping.”

Learned to lead belay on a GRIGRI but switched to a NEOX after struggling to hold the GRIGRI; gives slack quickly and doesn't worry about their hands, though it hangs heavy on the belay loop.

“I like using the neox. I can give my climbing partner slack quickly and don’t have to worry about what to do with my hands.”

Found the NEOX pays out slack poorly when using the thumb-on-cam method.

At a crag with very dirty, thick rope they struggled to feed slack on their GRIGRI; the NEOX made feeding a dream. On ropes 9.8 mm or thinner they're happy with the GRIGRI.

“The neox made feeding out a dream. So it was good for that - thick, dirty rope. Otherwise I'm happy using a grigri, but I don't often climb on anything thicker than a 9.8.”

Bought a NEOX on a deal and uses it for lead, but much prefers the GRIGRI: the NEOX cams up if their hand is near it while feeding slack, so they short-rope more, and it feels gimmicky to them.

“I’ve actually found that the neox cams up easily if my hand is close to the device when feeding out slack (which it always is when using a gri gri)”