Instinct VS

Climbs in the Instinct VS rather than the softer VSR and has never met a boulder they couldn't do for lack of friction on a volume, at most needing extra tries; soft shoes leave their toes sore on small footholds.

Instinct VS is the best fit they've found for wide feet, but the heel is loose on heel hooks.

Instinct VS gives great lockdown for them; the Vapor heel was baggy by comparison.

New Instinct VS at 41.5 can't be worn more than 10 minutes without big-toe knuckle pain.

Instinct VS fits great except for air below the heel, which makes edging a bit worse and smearing easier; fine for the gym.

Their main shoe is the Instinct VS: the fit is great and they love its heel and toe hooking.

With a wide foot and narrow heel, found the Instinct VS by far the comfiest and best-fitting shoe they tried, but got a blister on the big-toe knuckle from the toe rubber within an hour.

“They are perfect but I have been climbing for about an hour and have developed a blister on my big toe knuckle from the rubber on top of the top.”

After hating the La Sportiva Solution's heel, found the women's Instinct VS a perfect fit from the first try and absolutely loves it.

“First time I put on the Scarpa Instincts vsw they’re were 100/100 haha. Absolutely love them”

Took the Instinct VS aggressively sized; it hurt and made their toes numb at first, but after warm showers in them and 10–12 sessions it stretched to a perfect tight fit.

“they hurt and made my toes go numb at first, but after a couple warm/hot showers in them along with about 10-12 sessions they stretched to be a perfect *tight* fit.”

Moved from the Drago to the women's Instinct VS: much stiffer with a slower break-in and a similar but not identical fit; better for almost everything except some smearing and toe hooks.

“It's a lot stiffer. Break in is a lot slower. Fits similarly, but not the same. Worth trying on in person. Better for me for almost all things, except certain smearing-- and certain toehooks.”

Their main shoes are the Instinct VS in 40.5, which fit very well; they feel tight at first and after long breaks, and with regular climbing they have wondered about going half a size down.

“Those are Scarpa’s Instinct VS, size 40,5. Those fit very well and I’m quite used to them.”

A 5.12+/13- sport climber switching from La Sportiva started with the Instinct VS as an all-rounder and finds it a great fit that works well enough for everything.

“I started with instinct VS with the goal of an all around shoe and I feel it's a great fit. It works well enough for everything.”

Bought the Instinct VS half a size bigger than their VSR (42.5) and broke it in within a few weeks; uses it outdoors when they need to keep shoes on longer.

Tried the women's Instinct VS and still had dead space at the heel, a bit less than in the Shaman 2S LV; the toes hurt for the first 30 minutes, then felt comfy.

With a very flat, skinny heel, finds the women's Instinct VS the only shoe that sort of fits, but says recent versions have a higher-volume heel and ankle, so new pairs don't fit like their old ones.

“The Scarpa Instinct Women’s VS W is the only shoe on the market that sort of fits me. It was a better heel but in the last few years”

Normally climbs in the Instinct VS but finds it wears out quickly with lots of practice volume, so bought a cheaper shoe for volume days.