Ohmega

Shares two outdoor incidents where the Ohmega didn't cam as expected on near-top-rope falls just above the first bolt, pulling the belayer up into the climber despite the ++ setting.

Finally got the Ohmega after years with the Ohm and finds many improvements, including a pulley wheel so there's no drag.

Big difference for them: their quick-clipping husband sometimes locked up the Ohm, but the Ohmega has been so smooth, and falls feel safe but soft.

Loves the Ohmega; it helps a lot even when the weight difference isn't big.

At 100 lb belaying a 190 lb partner, wouldn't lead belay without the Ohmega; fine for pulling up to clip as long as you don't yank.

Their lighter partners absolutely love belaying with the Ohmega, and it has let them climb with more people.

With a 30 kg difference, the Ohmega (after an Ohm) lets them catch their partner from the first bolt; without it a practice fall above the fourth clip had them colliding below the first.

Has used both since release and finds the Ohmega a step up in almost every aspect, smooth for the climber with a good belay, though more annoying to line up on the first clip.

Found the Ohm a pain, but for hard send goes or the chance of a low fall the Ohmega is great to have with a 23 kg difference.

Loves the Ohmega, even on top rope within the recommended weight ratio: much more comfortable to catch falls, and lowering feels like lowering a child even on the lightest setting.

With a 70 lb weight difference, the Ohmega has been a game changer: no more getting yanked to the first clip, and lowering is easier.

The Ohmega has been great: their 60 lb kid regularly catches their lead falls on the lowest setting, and they use it to belay 240 lb leaders too.

Has used both the Ohm and Ohmega for partners 40-60 lb heavier and finds them similar; the Ohmega seemed to give somewhat harder catches over a few uses, possibly user error.

The Ohmega helps a lot, adding enough friction for the weight difference while staying subtle enough not to make every fall hard.

Likes the Ohmega; you can still belay dynamically, standing about three feet back rather than right under the climber.

Just got the Ohmega and really enjoys it in the gym with a lighter partner: smooth, with less getting pulled up on falls.

Their Ohmega's sling showed label abrasion after only 4 days and about 35 falls, though the sling itself is OK.

Used the Ohmega with a GriGri and compared it with their Ohm: lighter, very good for paying out slack, and their belayer gave a soft catch, only pulled up about half as far.

First session on the Ohmega: never short-roped and pulling rope was very smooth, though it held so much when lowering that their lighter belayer struggled.

Their Ohmega is better than the Ohm in every way, mostly by a little; pulling rope through faster helps noticeably.

Loves their Ohmega; unlike the Ohm it disengages automatically when the rope goes slack again.

Their brand-new Ohmega arrived with loose and broken threads in the sling straight out of the box; returning it over quality control.

Lead belayed to 8 months pregnant using an Edelrid Ohmega to compensate for the growing weight difference with their partner.

Belays their boyfriend with the Ohmega after using the Ohm; after a longer-than-expected lead fall they noticed slack can get stuck above the Ohmega unless they tug the rope after clips, and that they should stand slightly back from it.

With about an 80 lb weight difference, they and their partner find the Ohmega a big improvement over the Ohm: easier for the climber to pull rope to clip and more natural to time a soft catch; the adjustable resistance is nice.

“Both of us feel that the Ohmega is a really significant improvement-- he can pull rope to clip much more easily, and I feel that timing the jump for a soft catch is much more natural and less finicky.”

A light lead belayer (105–120 lb) who has belayed climbers up to about 240 lb says the Ohmega is the answer for big weight differences, usually on the middle setting with gym ropes.

“Only lead, I have ranged 105-120lbs, have belayed up to around 240lbs. Ohmega is the answer.”

Found the Ohmega great when they weighed 230 lb, more than 100 lb heavier than their belayer: catches were good and safe.

“Depending on the weight difference, I’ve found the Edelrid Ohmega to be great. At one point, I was 230lbs, >100 lbs difference between me and my belayer, and catches were good and safe.”

With an 88 kg climber and a 50 kg belayer, the Ohmega's first setting on a good 9.5 mm rope gave soft but not overly long catches with fairly passive belaying.