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climbing shoe
Scarpa

Instinct VSR

Category
Climbing shoe
Type
—
Key specs
Vibram XS Grip 2, 3.5 mm
Material
Microfiber and leather
Weight
230 g (size 40)

What climbers keep saying · from 54 reviews

needs break-in13comfortable10precise edging9painful7durable4stretches a lot4wears out fast4sticky rubber3

The VSR's stiff toe rubber needs lots of breaking in and it loses its aggressive bite, giving the toes more room; they wish they'd sized a half size down.

mixedneeds break-in

Bought the VSR 2 sizes below street (43.5 to 41.5): pretty uncomfortable at first but stretched quite a bit to a perfect fit.

positivestretches a lot

The VSR still edges very well, only slightly less stiff than the VS, with stickier Grip 2 rubber at the expense of durability; it's their main shoe, though not super sensitive.

positiveprecise edgingsticky rubber

Switched from Drago to Instinct VSR: tiny holds became easy with a stiffer front and soft middle.

positiveprecise edging

The Instinct VSR is a workhorse for almost everything; the Drago is a specialty tool.

positive

Recommends the Instinct VSR: super comfy and the heel is amazing.

positivecomfortablegreat heel hooks

Likes the Instinct VSR for indoor and outdoor bouldering, sport and some single-pitch trad: just so versatile.

positive

Their Scarpa VSRs have the best heel and toebox for them, used indoors and on sandstone.

positive

Has worn the Instinct VSR almost exclusively for 5 years for indoor sport.

positivedurable

Has the Instinct VSR and absolutely loves it for their wide toe box; the break-in wasn't bad.

positivecomfortable

First session in the Instinct VSR: comfortable very fast but suddenly baggy with dead space, leaving little confidence toeing on tiny holds or heel hooking.

negativestretches a lot

Wanted something more aggressive than the Kronos, settled on the Instinct VSR and is happy with it.

positive

The Instinct VSR is the best shoe they've had for serious double toe hooks, the only one they can let go of their hands in, though the toe rubber can hurt the top of the knuckles.

positivegreat toe hooks

Wears the Instinct VSR as their main route shoe: not as soft as the Skwama, pretty great edging and solid all round.

positiveprecise edging

Can wear the Instinct VSR in a 40 comfortably for a few hours; Scarpa tensioning is gentler on the Achilles than La Sportiva's.

positivecomfortable

Prefers the Instinct VSR even though the heel seems looser, as it stays in place well.

positive

Calls the Instinct VSR a superb all-rounder: they used to bring up to four pairs to the crag and now pack only their Instincts.

“The instinct VSR is such a badass ass all rounder, I used to bring up to 4 different types of shoe to the crag but now I just pack my instincts”
positive

Has used VSRs for years and resoled them, calling them the best shoes they've owned, though the velcro straps were always the first part to wear out.

“I've had a pair of VSRs for several years, loved them enough to have them resoled, by far the best shoes I've ever owned.”
positivedurable

Used their VSR for two years indoors and outdoors; far more durable than La Sportiva shoes that lasted them six months.

“I used my VSR for 2 years both indoors and outdoors. Far better than La Sportiva and its 6 months durability.”
positivedurable

Has an Instinct VSR alongside another Instinct and likes it for different reasons.

positive

With bunions and bursitis, climbs almost exclusively in the Instinct VSR now; as aggressive as they want and their feet handle it.

positive

Just finished breaking in their VSRs: they stretched about half a size and the downturn mellowed; the big toe is the main pain point as the rubber is slow to mould.

mixedneeds break-in

Their VSRs were nasty to break in because the synthetic feels stiff; they stretched only about half a size but got pliable quickly, and they wish they'd gone half a size smaller.

mixedneeds break-in

New Instinct VSRs are good everywhere, tight in the toe box and width, but the heel is pretty spacious.

mixed

Their Instinct VSR lasted about 6 months; resoled with different rubber and liked the shoe less after.

mixed

Used VSRs for a few years before switching; heel too loose and rough hard toe materials.

mixed

The Instinct VSR is one of their overall favourites; despite not fitting perfectly it has gotten the job done.

positive

Their heel is loose in the VSRs; it took a couple of months to break in but now lasts a full session.

mixedneeds break-in

The Instinct VSR is the only technical shoe that fits their wide feet well.

positivecomfortable

Their VSRs (1.5 sizes down) are usually comfortable after a couple of hours in them.

positive

The first session in VSRs sucked, but after 2-3 three-hour sessions they broke in super nicely.

positiveneeds break-in

The navy Instinct VSRs still have some heel dead space but bother their toes far less.

mixed

The Instinct VSR caused so much big-toe pain on their Egyptian feet that they stopped bouldering for two weeks.

negativepainful

Their VSRs were painful; half a size bigger was manageable and they've gotten better over a couple of months.

mixedneeds break-in

Bought the Instinct VSR in true size; extremely snug but never painful.

positivecomfortable

After Evolvs felt too big on wide feet, they bought Scarpa VSRs and never looked back.

positive

Their VSRs were quite painful to break in but are pretty comfortable now, only hurting after about an hour.

mixedneeds break-in

Wears the VSR and VSR LV as primary all-rounders for bouldering; they stretch at least half a size.

positivestretches a lot

Their Instinct VSRs really hurt the big-toe area after a couple of climbs.

negativepainful

Has used Instinct VSRs for 5 years, but their current pair's sole started cracking after only about 3 months.

mixedwears out fast

After TC Pro fit problems, they now climb almost exclusively in Instinct VSRs for trad, sport and bouldering.

positivecomfortable

Got Instinct VSRs at street size with virtually no break-in despite being aggressive; meaningfully better than previous shoes.

positivecomfortable

Prefers Scarpa since La Sportiva doesn't fit; the ridged toe patch on their VSRs is the best toe hook they've used, though it tends to peel off on outdoor rock.

mixedgreat toe hooks

Instinct VSRs fit them really well in 42.5, one size down from street.

positivecomfortable

Moved from Simond Klimbs to Scarpa Instinct VSRs, which fit them very well and feel very good.

positivecomfortable

Switched from the orange Instinct VS to the blue VSR and finds it much softer with stickier rubber at 50 kg; loves it on coarse sandstone.

positivesticky rubber

Has resoled their Instinct VSRs, one of only two shoes they've resoled in over 10 years.

positivedurable

Loved the Instinct VSR until the toe box gave them painful knuckle calluses.

mixedpainful

Used to climb only in VSRs and liked them, but now prefers the stickier Veloce; VSRs need a little adjustment yet are still very capable.

mixed

Switching from Skwamas to the VSR, they sent several V6s in under five attempts each.

positiveprecise edging

VSRs were a step up from Veloces for standing on smaller edges; smearing was a learning curve.

positiveprecise edging

Never had slipping issues in the VSR, finds them very grippy, but they're less good for smearing.

positivesticky rubber

VSR excels on small edges and slightly overhanging terrain; gave up Veloces as too sticky for footwork.

positiveprecise edging

First sessions in new VSRs felt horrible and they kept slipping coming from Veloces.

negativeneeds break-in

Uses the Instinct VSR as their hard shoe; significantly stiffer than their very soft Tenaya Mastias.

positiveprecise edging

Really wanted to like the VSRs but they were brutal on their big-toe knuckle.

negativepainful

A V4–V5 boulderer with a narrow foot and heel started with the Instinct VSR to replace worn-out Finales, but found the heel pretty baggy and exchanged them.

“I started with Instinct VSRs, but the heel was pretty baggy, so I exchanged them for Skwamas.”
negative

Recently switched to the Instinct VSR half a size down: at first their toes hurt unbearably, but after about a week the shoes started to stretch out; wearing them at home with socks helped.

“I recently switched into Scarpa Instict VSR, downsizing half a foot size. First time I put them on they were unbearably, toes hurt.”
mixedneeds break-in

Bought the Instinct VSR on a big discount and had to size down considerably for the heel to fit; at their normal sizes the heel made air noises with every step.

“I picked up a pair of VSRs today thanks to a huge discount... had to size down considerably for the heel to fit right. At my normal sizes, they made fart noises with every step.”
mixed

Climbs almost only indoors in the Instinct VSR in EU 41, their first high-performance shoe; it fits well, gives very good support on tiny holds and edges, and they have no major complaints.

“I’m looking to try a softer shoe without going in the complete other direction and having something really soft. I like that the vsr provide very good support for tiny holds / edging.”
positiveprecise edging

Does all their climbing in the Instinct VSR and likes the fit and versatility, but finds them clunky until thoroughly broken in, when they get softer and more sensitive.

“I do all my climbing in Scarpa Instinct VSRs and quite like the fit and their versatility. But I find they feel very clunky until they’re thoroughly broken in”
mixedneeds break-in

Has owned several pairs of the Instinct VSR: slightly better edging and a sharper angle than the Skwama, but the 3.5 mm rubber wears out quite a bit sooner.

“VSR got slightly better edgeing and sharper angle of attack. But 3.5mm rubber makes them last quite a bit shorter than skwama which has 4mm.”
mixedprecise edgingwears out fast

Bouldering about every third day since May, wore their VSRs to the point of needing a resole within months, faster than their Solutions; the VSRs feel softer to them.

“For now I'm back to the solutions and so far the wear doesn't look like that. Weirdly it has the same rubber, doesn't it? The VSRs somehow feel softer to me.”
mixedwears out fastsensitive

Switched from Solutions to the Instinct VSR mainly for sport climbing; the heel is slightly baggy but hasn't been a problem on 5.11 in the gym and around 5.10b outside.

“I went from normal Solutions to VSR for mainly sport climbing, but I agree on the heel being slightly baggy. Hasn't been an issue thus far and I can do 5.11 in the gym and ~10b outdoors”
mixed

Just received the Instinct VSR: the length is right, but there is an air pocket at the heel on one side, and they are considering swapping to the LV.

mixed

With very wide feet, finds the Instinct VSR an amazing fit, though says it needs wide feet and a high-volume heel to work.

positivecomfortable

Wears the Instinct VSR in 42 against a 44–45 street size; break-in took a couple of months, but now they are pretty great.

mixedneeds break-in

Their Instinct VSRs always hurt for the first couple of sessions, and they are dying to take them off between attempts until they break in.

mixedneeds break-in

Bought the Instinct VSR last year after three-plus years of climbing and found the fit absolutely perfect.

positive

Was comfortable in the Instinct VSR until their Achilles became too sensitive to its heel rand; finds the VSR toe box wider and comfier than the Skwama's.

mixedpainful

Their Instinct VSR fits well in the heel, but the toe box is extremely tight on their big toes and has left marks, so they are looking at a Skwama next.

mixedpainful

With a wide forefoot and shallow, narrow heel, found the Instinct VSR heel too baggy.

negative