Ohmega

Belays their boyfriend with the Ohmega after using the Ohm; after a longer-than-expected lead fall they noticed slack can get stuck above the Ohmega unless they tug the rope after clips, and that they should stand slightly back from it.

With about an 80 lb weight difference, they and their partner find the Ohmega a big improvement over the Ohm: easier for the climber to pull rope to clip and more natural to time a soft catch; the adjustable resistance is nice.

“Both of us feel that the Ohmega is a really significant improvement-- he can pull rope to clip much more easily, and I feel that timing the jump for a soft catch is much more natural and less finicky.”

A light lead belayer (105–120 lb) who has belayed climbers up to about 240 lb says the Ohmega is the answer for big weight differences, usually on the middle setting with gym ropes.

“Only lead, I have ranged 105-120lbs, have belayed up to around 240lbs. Ohmega is the answer.”

Found the Ohmega great when they weighed 230 lb, more than 100 lb heavier than their belayer: catches were good and safe.

“Depending on the weight difference, I’ve found the Edelrid Ohmega to be great. At one point, I was 230lbs, >100 lbs difference between me and my belayer, and catches were good and safe.”

With an 88 kg climber and a 50 kg belayer, the Ohmega's first setting on a good 9.5 mm rope gave soft but not overly long catches with fairly passive belaying.