From climbers, and from around the web with the source linked.
An experienced climber returned the Phantom Pro in size 45 (their street size, US 11.5): the fit felt good and tight, but the big-toe knuckles were in extreme pain, and since the synthetic upper won't stretch much they sent it back.
“I just had to return them in a size 45 (equivalent to my street shoe size 11.5). Everything felt good and tight however my big toe knuckles were in extreme pain.”
Recommends the Shark III HV for wide feet, the shoe they moved to after years in Tenaya Mastias; releasing the hidden inner Velcro strap gives the full width.
“MadRock Shark III HV are pretty good - make sure she pokes around inside to release the hidden velcro strap when trying them on to release the full width.”
With wide feet and a narrow, shallow heel, really loved the Drone 2 LV: a lot of effort to get on, but amazing once on.
“also really really really loved the mad rock drone 2.0 LV. regret not buying it again, it just takes a LOT of effort to put on but once it’s on it feels amazing”
Tried the Shaman 2S in a store: it fit very well but was quite a bit too soft for them.
“i could only try on the Shaman 2S in the store and they fit me very well, but they were really quite a bit too soft for me.”
Wears the Shaman Trance in the same size as their Shaman 2S and Phantom Pro; the Trance is narrower up front, more tensioned at the heel and stiffer than the 2S.
“Trance is more narrow in the front than the 2S, and a little more tensioned in the heel/achilles and is a stiffer shoe.”
Usually needs women's climbing shoes; took the Shaman LV one EU size down and it fits great.
“I personally downsized one EU size and got LV in the shamans cause I usually need women’s climbing shoes & they fit great”
With very narrow feet, loves their second-hand Drago LV in 38, but it is too big for them and the heel folds on heel hooks.
“I now use a 38 second hand dragos LV. I love them but they're too big for me especially the heel part, the heel literally folds when I do heel hooks.”
With a wide but low-volume forefoot and Egyptian toes, finds the Boostic a perfect fit, along with Katanas and Instincts.
Wears the Phantom Pro in the same size as the Shaman 2S: almost the same fit but a bit wider, and stiffer and less sensitive than the Shaman Trance.
“Phantom Pro is for me almost the same fit as 2S, but a bit wider. It’s even stiffer than the Trance and less sensitive.”
A light lead belayer (105–120 lb) who has belayed climbers up to about 240 lb says the Ohmega is the answer for big weight differences, usually on the middle setting with gym ropes.
“Only lead, I have ranged 105-120lbs, have belayed up to around 240lbs. Ohmega is the answer.”
Has used the Ohm for a big weight difference between climber and belayer; says it is good too, though it can short-rope the climber a lot.
Has climbed in the VSR LV since its release alongside the Instinct VS women's; sized the LV half a size below their VS women's size and calls the fit perfect.
“I had to size down a half size on the VSR LV vs my normal VSW size to get the desired fit and it's perfect.”
A 5'2" belayer with negative ape index and a heavier, taller partner owns both a GRIGRI and a NEOX; the NEOX is their favourite and feels smoother, though they get on fine with the GRIGRI too.
“We’ve got a GriGri and a Neox. Neox is def my fave for belaying, I find it smoother too.”
A guide-mode tube device is their preferred rig, and the Giga Jul covers assisted braking, guide mode and two-strand rappels in one; lowering from a top belay is harder than with a GRIGRI.
Found the Ohmega great when they weighed 230 lb, more than 100 lb heavier than their belayer: catches were good and safe.
“Depending on the weight difference, I’ve found the Edelrid Ohmega to be great. At one point, I was 230lbs, >100 lbs difference between me and my belayer, and catches were good and safe.”
Loves their NEOX: started on an ATC, borrowed their lead instructor's NEOX and now uses it for top rope, lead, rappelling, everything.
A V4–V5 boulderer with a narrow foot and heel started with the Instinct VSR to replace worn-out Finales, but found the heel pretty baggy and exchanged them.
“I started with Instinct VSRs, but the heel was pretty baggy, so I exchanged them for Skwamas.”
Took the VSR LV two sizes below street: it hurt a lot for the first two sessions, then stretched nicely and can now be worn almost a whole session.
“I’m a 44 street shoe. Sized to 42. They hurt like hell for the first two sessions or so but stretched nicely. Can wear almost a whole session if needed.”
Their Drago LVs fit great and have been a definite favourite; now looking for something a bit stiffer.
“I have a pair of dragos and they fit great and have been a definite favorite but I want to try something that maybe isn’t as soft.”
Bought the Drone 2 LV a size down and found it far too cramped and tight around their foot, despite loving their Drago LVs.
“I got a pair of madrock drone v2 lv and I downsized and size but they are way to cramped and tight around my foot”
Moved from the Drago to the women's Instinct VS: much stiffer with a slower break-in and a similar but not identical fit; better for almost everything except some smearing and toe hooks.
“It's a lot stiffer. Break in is a lot slower. Fits similarly, but not the same. Worth trying on in person. Better for me for almost all things, except certain smearing-- and certain toehooks.”
With Haglund's deformity, tried the Shaman Trance LV in size 43 and the Achilles pain came on quickly.
Finds the NEOX feeds slack like butter thanks to its rolling wheel, but notes catches can be longer because more rope pays out, and would keep a GRIGRI for a belayer already good on one.
“The Neox inherently pays out more slack, and quicker, because of the rolling center wheel. It feeds out slack like butter.”
Now belays with a Jul² for lead and a Giga Jul for top rope; has also led on the Giga Jul but thinks it may be one of the worst devices for that.
Finds the blue Instinct VSR loses its tension really quickly.
Belays a tall, fast-clipping friend tube-style on the NEOX and very rarely short-ropes them; prefers it to gripping a GRIGRI's cam.
“For my part, I very rarely short rope because I belay with a tube style motion on the Neox. I don’t love the idea of gripping the GriGri cam”
Switched from Solutions to the Instinct VSR mainly for sport climbing; the heel is slightly baggy but hasn't been a problem on 5.11 in the gym and around 5.10b outside.
“I went from normal Solutions to VSR for mainly sport climbing, but I agree on the heel being slightly baggy. Hasn't been an issue thus far and I can do 5.11 in the gym and ~10b outdoors”
Tried both and prefers the NEOX; with thicker ropes the newer GRIGRI felt like it had a ton of drag.
Loves the NEOX for lead belaying; as a left-handed belayer, lead belaying on a GRIGRI didn't appeal.
Much prefers the NEOX, having learned on a tube: it is less grabby, but feeding a lot of slack quickly needs good timing or the cam engages.
“It is less grabby but if you want to feed a lot of slack quickly you will need to time it correctly otherwise the cam will engage and it will be annoying.”
Testing it when it came out, found the NEOX slightly more likely to give longer falls or not catch with slack in front of the device, though no worse than assisted tube devices.
“In my testing when it came out I found it is slightly more likely to produce longer falls or not catch when there's slack in front of the device.”
Has used both: the NEOX is more forgiving when paying out slack, but they suspect it might not lock on its own if a fall catches them off guard, where a GRIGRI feels bomber.
“Neox - more forgiving at giving slack, one doesn't have to be flawless and it still works. I can imagine that the device may not lock on its own in case of uncaught fall.”
Likes the NEOX for top rope but prefers a GRIGRI for lead: paying out slack on a friend's NEOX felt choppy, good for unexpected falls but not for sudden high clips.
“Especially with giving slack, it felt like the neox was a bit more choppy, which is nice if you’re falling unexpectedly but not ideal if you’re suddenly high clipping.”
Learned to lead belay on a GRIGRI but switched to a NEOX after struggling to hold the GRIGRI; gives slack quickly and doesn't worry about their hands, though it hangs heavy on the belay loop.
“I like using the neox. I can give my climbing partner slack quickly and don’t have to worry about what to do with my hands.”
Found the NEOX pays out slack poorly when using the thumb-on-cam method.
At a crag with very dirty, thick rope they struggled to feed slack on their GRIGRI; the NEOX made feeding a dream. On ropes 9.8 mm or thinner they're happy with the GRIGRI.
“The neox made feeding out a dream. So it was good for that - thick, dirty rope. Otherwise I'm happy using a grigri, but I don't often climb on anything thicker than a 9.8.”
Bought a NEOX on a deal and uses it for lead, but much prefers the GRIGRI: the NEOX cams up if their hand is near it while feeding slack, so they short-rope more, and it feels gimmicky to them.
“I’ve actually found that the neox cams up easily if my hand is close to the device when feeding out slack (which it always is when using a gri gri)”
Used the Origin VS as a beginner shoe and found it very versatile, with a decent toe and heel for learning heel and toe hooks; the rubber is thick enough for occasional outdoor use.
“I used the origin vs as a beginner shoe. It's super versatile and since it has a decent toe and heel you can learn intermediate techniques heel and toe hooks which are a integral part of climbing.”
Used the Vapor V in the gym and found it a good all-rounder: not the best at anything, but good enough at everything.
“I have used the vapor V before though, only in gym climbing. But I thought the vapor V was a pretty good all around shoe, not the best at anything but good enough at everything.”
Owns a Pinch, used mostly for top rope since moving. Likes it but finds lowering quite sensitive, with a narrow angle for brisk lowering, and on lead found it harder to feed slack than the BD Pilot they used before.
“When lowering I notice that it can be quite sensitive, the angle where you can lower someone briskly without them accelerating too much is quite narrow, though also the gym I got to has some awful ropes around”
Used the BD Pilot before switching to an Edelrid Pinch and really likes it; found it easier to feed slack on lead than the Pinch.
Has worn the Acro Comp (narrow fit) for years: the toe fits perfectly, but there is space in the heel.
“I’ve worn the Butora acro comp LV for years and have the same problem. The toe fits perfectly so I deal with the heel.”
Bought the narrow-fit Gomi, sized down more than usual since it stretches a lot, and finds its heel fits better than the Acro Comp's.
“I recently bought the narrow fit gomi (the pink one) and downsized more than usual because those shoes stretch a lot. The heel fits better than the acro comp.”
Sees the Shaman Trance as a best-of-both between the Shaman and Shaman Pro, with more precision than either but less than Italian brands; likes Evolv's new rubber.
“Trance is halfway between the shaman pro and shaman in the “best of both” way. More precision than either of those two, but still less than the Italian brands.”
Recommends the Shaman 2S LV for small heels: a tiny heel with some room for a wider forefoot.
“Evolv Shaman 2S LV has a tiny heel, but also allows some space for a wider fore foot.”
With low-volume heels, finds the Instinct S their second-best heel fit after the women's Skwama, about the same as the VSR LV.
Both of their two pairs of Dragos have small holes in the mesh, which they put down to toe hooks.
“I have two pairs of dragos and both of them have small holes in the mesh. Toe hooks will eventually cause it”
Replaced an old GRIGRI 2 with the Pinch last year. Likes it without finding it special: handles about like a modern GRIGRI, maybe a little easier to fine-tune lowering speed.
“I replaced my old grigri 2 with it last year. It's nothing special. I like it. Probably equivalent in handling to a modern grigri. Maybe a little easier to finely control lowering speed.”
Tried the NEOX for top rope after years on a GRIGRI and found the difference in drag very noticeable; would switch if they roped up more than they boulder.
Bought the Instinct VSR on a big discount and had to size down considerably for the heel to fit; at their normal sizes the heel made air noises with every step.
“I picked up a pair of VSRs today thanks to a huge discount... had to size down considerably for the heel to fit right. At my normal sizes, they made fart noises with every step.”
Recommends their Aspect Pros for crack climbing, saying they kick ass.
As a heavier climber at the gym every other day, finds soft shoes like the Drago last only 3–4 weeks.
“Soft shoes like dragos last me 3-4 weeks as a heavier climber going to the gym every second day.”
Rates the Aspect 8.5/10 as their outdoor shoe after a year or more: the stiff platform was really supportive on rope routes, and their favourite outdoor climbs were in it.
“Stiff platform was really supportive and I could take my time and soak in the climb and views while on the rope. My favorite outdoor climbs were in these shoes.”
Rates the Gomi 8/10 for indoor bouldering: lots of toe hook rubber that bites wherever they slap a foot, but not as sensitive as the Tenaya Oasi.
“I could slap my feet wherever and in whatever orientation blindly and still get some bite from the rubber. I score this lower than the Tenaya Oasi because it's not as sensitive as that shoe”
Rates the Remora HV 9/10 as their very soft daily gym shoe; fits extremely well half a size down and does everything except moderate to hard heel hooks.
“Remora HV - 9/10 extremely soft daily driver gym shoe for me. fits my foot extremely well at 1/2 size down from street.”
Switched to the Remora LV hoping for a better heel fit and found it a complete failure: rates the fit 0/10.
“Remora LV - 0/10 fit like ass. attempted to get better heel fitment by switching to LV, was a complete failure.”
Rates the RedLine Strap 7/10: the fit isn't ideal for their foot, so they wear street size, but it is very soft with great toe rubber, and they keep buying it.
“fitment not ideal for my foot shape so i have to rock them at street shoe size. extremely soft shoe as well with insane toe rubber.”
Found the Veloce very comfy and sensitive when trying it in the store, but the heel didn't match their foot.
After hating the La Sportiva Solution's heel, found the women's Instinct VS a perfect fit from the first try and absolutely loves it.
“First time I put on the Scarpa Instincts vsw they’re were 100/100 haha. Absolutely love them”
Wears the Drone CS HV in their normal size; tighter than they find comfortable, but it climbs well.
“Madrock comp drone hv, I'm in my normal size and they are smaller than I am comfortable wearing but do climb well”
Wears the Drago and Instinct VSR in 40, but the Chimera in 40 turned out too large.
With very low-volume feet, wears the VSR LV in 40.5 against a 42.5 street size; they didn't stretch, but the materials relaxed and softened.
“I have the instinct vsr lv in a 40.5. I don't feel like they stretched at all. The materials relax and get softer.”
Likes the Pinch: it feeds noticeably more easily than a GRIGRI and its straight rope path should kink ropes less. Thinks clipping it without a carabiner is a bit of a gimmick, though always uses it that way.
Finds paying out more than one arm length of slack slightly more annoying on the NEOX than on a GRIGRI, because it easily locks after the first arm length and has to be unlocked.
“I find giving out more than one arm length of slack slighty more annoying than on the Grigri. It's easy to run into the blocking feature after the first arm length and then you have to unlock it”
Loves the Drago; the only shoe they've liked as much is the UP Mocc, which does almost everything the Drago does except very slippery slab and very aggressive toe hooks.
Took the Instinct VS aggressively sized; it hurt and made their toes numb at first, but after warm showers in them and 10–12 sessions it stretched to a perfect tight fit.
“they hurt and made my toes go numb at first, but after a couple warm/hot showers in them along with about 10-12 sessions they stretched to be a perfect *tight* fit.”
Wears the VSR LV in 42 after Skwamas: toes fully curled, they stand comfortably on very small edges, can wear them a whole session, and had no long painful break-in.
“My toes are fully curled with the knuckle pressing into the front of the shoe, and I can stand comfortably on very small edges. I can also wear the shoes an entire session without any problems.”
Finds the Pinch smooth to feed on a 9.5 mm rope but draggy for top-rope belaying on stiff 10.2 mm gym ropes, and with the anti-panic on it is hard to lower light climbers. The direct connection is very stable on the belay loop, enough to belay left-handed, but it is awkward to rack.
“Prefers a slightly skinnier rope than a grigri, has a slightly stiffer spring pretension so requires ever so slightly more brake strand pressure. Used with a 9.5mm its very easy to waterfall the rope through”
Tried the VSR LV at a Scarpa demo: 44.5 felt powerful but too painful, 45 tight; sent a project in the 45s and ordered a pair.
“I tired 45 and they were tight. 44.5 super snug, powerful to climb in but too painful to wear for more than 5 minutes.”
Likes the Pinch's handling, which feels less hefty than other cam devices, with smoothness somewhere between a GRIGRI and a NEOX.
Lead-belayed with a Pinch a few times in the gym and found it smooth, but the connection mechanism felt a little freaky; already owns several GRIGRIs and saw nothing to gain by buying one.
Has belayed with a friend's Pinch: it lowers smoothly and the anti-panic only kicked in when they forced it. Rates it about equal to a GRIGRI and would pick the Pinch if given the choice.
“I don’t really think the grigri (3) is better than the pinch or vice versa. It does lower smooth and the anti panic didn’t come in action until I forced it to see what happens.”
A 100 kg climber on V5–V7 indoors finds the Veloce lace incredibly good at smearing; the laces and longer midsole let it stand on almost any gym hold, and only the smallest holds make them want a stiffer shoe.
“I'm a 100kg guy climbing V5-V7 indoors in the current Veloce Lace. It's incredibly good at smearing”
Loves the Drago, but climbing hard in them wears them out fast even with proper footwork.
Their first Drago LVs came with bent Velcro straps that soon began to wear through; the replacement pair had the same problem.
“Out of the box, boths shoes velcro straps were bent (see pics) where the strap was sitting in the buckle.”
Tried the Shaman Trance on the wall for a session and enjoyed it.
Loves the Veloce's fit and comfort over long sessions and found the original S72 rubber amazing on rock and in the gym, now worn down and due for a resole.
“I’m in love with my shoes, I love the way they fit my feet, I love how comfortable they are to use on prolonged time”
Tried the women's Instinct VS and still had dead space at the heel, a bit less than in the Shaman 2S LV; the toes hurt for the first 30 minutes, then felt comfy.
With thin feet, found the regular Drago had far too much volume and didn't fit at all.
Climbs in the Instinct VSR LV one size below street size: the pain was intolerable at first after beginner shoes, but their feet adapted month by month and it now feels pretty comfy.
“when I switched from beginner shoes to aggressive shoes with just one size below I couldn’t tolerate the pain even for a minute. Month by month my feet adapted. Now I consider 1 size below pretty comfy.”
With wider feet, finds the RedLine Strap crushes their little toes even half a size above street size.
“I have VSR lvs -.5 from street size and redlines +.5 and they absolutely crush my pinkies... I do have wider feet though”
After big-toe joint trouble that kept them off one foot for weeks, can't speak highly enough of the Blackbird.
With very hypermobile big toes, finds the Kira doesn't push the big toe in; not very technical, but it is their comfort pair.
“Although Evolv Kira are not super wide, they don't seem to push my big toe in at all - otherwise it dislocates. These aren't super technical at all, but they are my comfort pair.”
Has owned several pairs of the Instinct VSR: slightly better edging and a sharper angle than the Skwama, but the 3.5 mm rubber wears out quite a bit sooner.
“VSR got slightly better edgeing and sharper angle of attack. But 3.5mm rubber makes them last quite a bit shorter than skwama which has 4mm.”
Calls the Drago the best smearing shoe they've had: very aggressive, yet they can drop heels and smear comfortably, and it sticks like nothing else.
“My Drago's are the best smearing shoes I've ever had. They are aggressive as hell but I can go heels down and smear super comfortably, and they stick like nothing else.”
Recently bought the Zenist LV in EU 37.5 and finds it very painful for now, but is sure it will fit once broken in, having tried the same model and size at an Evolv event.
“I recently bought the Evolv Zenist LV in EU 37.5, and oh boy, it hurts so much. I know for a fact that after breaking in, the shoes will fit”
Their lace-up Instincts were unbearable on the big toes until a few rounds of warming them in the oven and walking around in them; now they can actually wear them.
“I have a pair of Instinct lace ups that were unbearable on my big toes. I tried to sell them without success”
Bouldering about every third day since May, wore their VSRs to the point of needing a resole within months, faster than their Solutions; the VSRs feel softer to them.
“For now I'm back to the solutions and so far the wear doesn't look like that. Weirdly it has the same rubber, doesn't it? The VSRs somehow feel softer to me.”
Has top-roped indoors for about ten months; their big toes get so painful about an hour into a session that it has sapped their motivation, and they suspect their Kronos, though they thought they had sized them right.
“My guess is it's a shoe thing, I have the Evolv Kronos and I thought they were sized appropriately but I feel like they might be what's causing the issue.”
After trying many shoes, calls the RedLine Strap hands down the best all-round climbing shoe they have used; wears it a size 42 against a 44.5 street size with a Greek foot.
“I have tried many shoes and the redline strap are hands down the best shoes I’ve used for all round climbing.”
Does all their climbing in the Instinct VSR and likes the fit and versatility, but finds them clunky until thoroughly broken in, when they get softer and more sensitive.
“I do all my climbing in Scarpa Instinct VSRs and quite like the fit and their versatility. But I find they feel very clunky until they’re thoroughly broken in”
Went to the Drago for a softer Instinct-like shoe: not quite as stiff at the toe edge, but softer overall with an even better toe hook patch.
“Not quite the stiffness at the toe edge as the Instinct but an overall softer shoe with an even better toe hook patch.”
Owns both the VSR LV and the Drago; the VSR LV feels like a softer VSR, not just a lower-volume one, and lately they reach for it more than the Drago.
“To me they feel like a softer version of the VSR, not only a lower volume version.”
With a wide foot and narrow heel, found the Instinct VS by far the comfiest and best-fitting shoe they tried, but got a blister on the big-toe knuckle from the toe rubber within an hour.
“They are perfect but I have been climbing for about an hour and have developed a blister on my big toe knuckle from the rubber on top of the top.”
Finds the Drago fit quite different from the Instinct and far too narrow for their foot shape.
Just got the Phantom Pro LV and loves them, recommending it for shallow heels.
Climbs almost only indoors in the Instinct VSR in EU 41, their first high-performance shoe; it fits well, gives very good support on tiny holds and edges, and they have no major complaints.
“I’m looking to try a softer shoe without going in the complete other direction and having something really soft. I like that the vsr provide very good support for tiny holds / edging.”
Finds the Instinct S softer and more sensitive than other Instincts thanks to thinner rubber, with a slightly better heel fit and more comfort, though it doesn't last as long.
“Try the Instinct S. thinner rubber, more feels and softer, but still an instinct. For me it fits a little better in the heel and the softness makes it more comfy generally. It doesn’t last as long though.”
Moved from the Instinct VSR to the Drago and hasn't looked back: similar fit and sizing but much more comfortable and better for heel hooks and smearing, if not as good on tiny edges.
“I went VSR to Dragos and haven’t looked back. Similar fit/sizing but much more comfortable and better for heel hooks and smearing. Maybe not so good on tiny edges but not terrible either.”
Slipped constantly for two weeks on their first Drago LV while the new rubber was slick, to the point of shelving them for a few months.
“New shoe rubber tends to be slicker - I was literally slipping for 2 weeks straight with my first Drago LV to a point of cursing and not wearing them for a few months”
Found the Veloce good, but the heel was far too deep for their foot.
Switched from Kubos to the Drago LV; break-in took about 6–7 sessions against 3–4 for the Kubos, but now that they have been patient they absolutely love them.
“The break in for Kubos was 3-4 sessions for me while the LVs were about 6-7. Now that I’ve been patient with them I absolutely love them.”
Found the Veloce similarly comfortable to the Instinct VSR but much softer.
Loved the Vapor V as their second pair of shoes, taken only half a size down because Scarpa sizing doesn't usually need more downsizing.
Likes the Veloce for both smearing and coordination moves on volumes: very soft rubber, a flexible structure and a comfort-focused fit.
Tried the Torque LV a full size down from street size and found the heel still too deep for their foot.
“I haven’t tried the AV1, but I did try the torque LV a full size down from street and the heel was still too deep.”
Recently switched to the Instinct VSR half a size down: at first their toes hurt unbearably, but after about a week the shoes started to stretch out; wearing them at home with socks helped.
“I recently switched into Scarpa Instict VSR, downsizing half a foot size. First time I put them on they were unbearably, toes hurt.”
Got the Drago LV half a size above street size as a gift. Trying them on, they felt better than anything else they had tried, but climbing in them was so painful they could barely stand on a hold.
“while just trying them, they felt better than anything i’ve tried before. but when i tried to actually climb in them, it was just so painful.”
Started climbing in the Momentum Lace: comfortable, but it slips on small footholds and on underhand climbs.
A 6'4", 220 lb climber uses the SITTA on most sport days because it is lighter, but finds it less comfortable than their bigger harness for hanging belays.
Loves the Vapor V as an all-rounder with harder but still sticky rubber.
Raps in assist mode on 8.5 mm dry ropes and doesn't find two-strand rappels jerky. On a single line it locks fine on an old 9.8 mm, okay on 8.5 mm with enough rope weight and not at all on 8.1 mm, so they test before relying on it.
“On my old fuzzy 9.8 mm it locks fine on a single line, locks okay on my 8.5 mm with enough rope weight, and absolutely does not lock on my 8.1 mm.”
At around 200 lb, likes the Petzl AQUILA.
Loves the Kronos as a super comfy shoe.
Uses the Geshido as their more aggressive shoe and likes it.
Bought the Veloce as a backup; it fit great in the store, but by the end of the first session it felt sloppy, with air pockets at the heel and under the foot on their long, narrow feet.
With a wide forefoot and narrow heel, only uses Shamans now; the 2S is really good if you want a softer shoe and has a tiny heel.
Even the LV Instinct has heels too deep for them, and the toe box crushes their big toe inward on Egyptian-shaped feet.
Wears the Generator Mid in 47 for all-day comfort; can squeeze into a TC Pro 46 but it is less fun.
Finds the Drone 2 HV kind of OK but doesn't like how aggressive it is, especially the amount of rubber.
Tried the Shaman Trance and found it fit pretty decently, though still with a heel bubble; half a size down might have been better.
After trying a dozen shoes, found the Shaman 2S LV fit their wide-forefoot, narrow-heel foot best.
With a wide forefoot and shallow, narrow heel, found the Instinct VSR heel too baggy.
Noticed fraying on the upper edge of the rubber after a single session in their Origin VS, after dragging a foot on a coarse gym wall.
Really likes their Helixes: decent rubber, and they do most of their outdoor climbing in them, including all their multipitch; uses a different pair for overhangs.
Normally climbs in the Instinct VS but finds it wears out quickly with lots of practice volume, so bought a cheaper shoe for volume days.
A V7–V9 boulderer has two decent holes at the toes of their Dragos after nine months; loves soft shoes but wants something stiffer for micro footholds.
Their first shoes, Black Diamond Momentums, were comfy but fell apart in under four months when the glue holding the rubber to the fabric failed.
The Petzl LUNA eased the groin pressure they had in another harness, until weight loss meant a smaller size, whose gear and belay loops are tiny and spoil the rise.
Uses the Swift Protect Pro 8.9 as their big-day rope and after a couple of seasons all over the place it is still in great shape. Finds it dense and heavy for its diameter, heavier than their Beal Opera, but it packs small, handles fairly well and feels reassuring around sharp rock.
“I've had it for a couple of seasons and used it all over the place and it's still in great shape. It's dense and fairly heavy for its size”
Prefers belaying a second from above with their Reverso: with no slack in the system it bites immediately, where a GRIGRI lets the rope slip a few inches; led five pitches on their last trip belaying only with the Reverso.
“if there isn't any unnecessary slack in the system and you're using an ATC/reverso, the climber strand bites down on the break strand immediately and they go nowhere.”
Wears the Generator for anything with crack climbing: stiffer and a bit clunkier than TC Pros, but it edges well, better than Instincts, despite giving no feedback.
“They're stiffer than TC Pros, a little more clunky, but are my go to for anything with crack climbing. They also edge quite well, better than instincts, even if the stiffness gives zero feedback.”
Loves the Generator Mid: much less clunky than TC Pros and climbs harder in it than in any of the four or five other high-top shoes they've owned.
“Personally, I find them a lot less clunky than TCs and am comfortable climbing quite a bit harder in them than in any of the other 4-5 styles of high tops I've owned.”
After problems with most shoes, the Instinct VSR LV is the only one that fits their heel perfectly.
With a wide forefoot and shallow, narrow heel, finds the standard (not LV) Shaman the only shoe that stays on their heel without crushing their toes.
“Evolv shaman- the standard not LV. It took me a long time to find them. They are the only shoe that will stay on my heel and not crush my toes.”
Recently got the Shaman Pro for their wide feet and is loving it.
Finds the Instinct S has the best heel for them, even as a slipper, and very comfortable.
Finds the Drago fits even wider feet once downsized and broken in.
A V4–V6 indoor boulderer wore their Veloces through a repair until done, but found them too soft for tiny slab footholds, and after a couple of weeks needed socks to stop their heels slipping.
Has been very happy with the Butora Gomi after struggling to find an aggressive shoe that was sticky, good on micro feet and heel hooks, and wearable for long periods.
Now also very happy with the Butora Ibex.
Moved from the Veloce to the Vapor S and loves it: noticeably stiffer though still a soft shoe; the size has to be right because the closure isn't great.
Used the Momentum harness for 18 months without problems, but after losing weight it now puts painful pressure on the inner-thigh crease when hanging, even with tightened leg loops.
Uses an Ohm when belaying heavier partners who will hang a lot, finding it takes a lot of weight out of the system and off their harness.
Got hip inflammation from long project belays of a partner 25 kg heavier while wearing the Momentum harness and switched to a different harness.
With a narrow heel and wide foot, finds the Drago XT very comfy once broken in, while the regular Drago and Drago LV were not comfortable for them.
Really liked their Veloces but they needed resoling after only five months of climbing.
Tried about 20 shoes and bought the Arpia V as by far the most comfortable, but after an hour's session the knuckle of their long fourth toe was really hurting.
A new climber breaking in the Shaman Trance LV two sizes above street size; after two wears the bruising on their big-toe knuckles is holding them back.
Wears the Shaman Trance as their main shoe: brutal for the first two sessions despite feeling perfect in the shop, now comfortable for 30–45 minutes though still very snug at the toe knuckles.
“The pair I'm wearing now felt *perfect* when I tried them on sitting down, but were brutal to walk or climb in for the first 2 sessions.”
Their first aggressive shoes were Dragos half a size down; they hurt for about two weeks, then opened up enough not to hurt except in very long sessions.
Their Shaman LV fits almost perfectly, though at $200 they are looking for something cheaper.
The Zenist LV is their favourite pair, now worn to the point of asking about a resole.
Tried the Kronos and found the heel really baggy.
With Egyptian feet, wide toes and a shallow heel, uses the Vapor V in 43: it mostly fits well, but there is some dead space in the heel and it occasionally slips.
With wide toes and a shallow heel, finds the Instinct VSR LV the best shoe for them.
Had a similar heel issue with the Vapor V; going half a size down gave a good heel fit, better than trying LV Instincts.
The Shaman Trance LV fit like a glove and was incredibly comfortable when new, but after a couple of sessions it loosened enough to make the heel squirmy.
VSR excels on small edges and slightly overhanging terrain; gave up Veloces as too sticky for footwork.
Finds the Instinct VSR LV by far the best for their narrow heel and owns three pairs.
With super slim heels, finds the Drone CS LV has the slimmest, shallowest heel of any shoe they've tried and fits perfectly.
Hates their Vapor V in street size: the heel is extremely loose and the shoe doesn't do it for them, so they only use it for warming up.
Returned Black Diamond Momentums as too slippery and got the Origin VS, which they really like for their very wide feet.
Found the Instinct VSR LV had a great heel for them, but the toes were too painful.
Bought the Instinct VSR last year after three-plus years of climbing and found the fit absolutely perfect.
Moved on from the Veloce because it got very soft very quickly and became too soft for crimpy slab footholds.
“I would not recommmend veloce for slab. They get VERY sof VERY quickly.”
Uses the Instinct VSR LV as their board shoe and loves it, though finds it too stiff for smearing.
Even half a size below street size, their Shaman 2S LV leaves significant dead space at the heel.
With a very flat, skinny heel, finds the women's Instinct VS the only shoe that sort of fits, but says recent versions have a higher-volume heel and ankle, so new pairs don't fit like their old ones.
“The Scarpa Instinct Women’s VS W is the only shoe on the market that sort of fits me. It was a better heel but in the last few years”
Had heel dead space in the Shaman 2S; the Shaman Trance fixed it.
Had heel dead space in the Shaman 2S; the Phantom Pro fixed it.
Calls the Torque AV1 the best heel they've found for their shallow, narrow heels and the most comfortable shoe they've ever tried.
Loves the Drone CS HV in size 9: the forefoot feels great with no pinching or rubbing, though there is a bit of dead space around and under the heel.
“I have the drone CS HV in a 9 and I love the shoe, however it does have a bit of dead space around and under the heel”
With the narrowest heel possible, tried every shoe and finds the Instinct VSR LV fits like a glove, half a size below street size.
Sized the Vapor S half a size up for a high-volume foot; after stretching it was a little less conforming than they'd like but OK.
After many shoes including the Instinct VS, VSR, women's VS, Drago and Drago LV, the Instinct VSR LV is their favourite and fits better than any shoe they've owned.
Finds the VSR LV a comfy fit for their foot shape, though it takes a while to break in.
Wears the regular (non-LV) Drago in EU 39.5 against an EU 42 street size; they fit like a glove, though going 2.5 sizes down was scary at first.
Wears the Instinct VSR in 42 against a 44–45 street size; break-in took a couple of months, but now they are pretty great.
Bought the Instinct VS half a size bigger than their VSR (42.5) and broke it in within a few weeks; uses it outdoors when they need to keep shoes on longer.
Uses the Shaman 2S half a size above street size; finds it right between stiff and soft, and though the toes are still tight after break-in, it is comfortable.
“I currently use my shaman 2s and I think they are right in the middle of stiff and soft, and can be good for just about anyone.”
Ordered the Vapor S online as their first shoe, 1.5 sizes below street; within minutes the toe knuckles hurt and the heel pinched hard at the base of the Achilles.
Tried the Instinct VSR LV hoping to avoid the VSR's heel rand pain, but had the same Achilles pain and a tighter toe box.
Was comfortable in the Instinct VSR until their Achilles became too sensitive to its heel rand; finds the VSR toe box wider and comfier than the Skwama's.
Their Instinct VSR fits well in the heel, but the toe box is extremely tight on their big toes and has left marks, so they are looking at a Skwama next.
Dragos last about 6 months on rough Walltopia walls for them.
Has climbed in the Veloce Lace for a year and calls it probably the best indoor shoe they've used: the S-72 rubber is incredible and has held up well; only a better heel would make it perfect.
“I've been climbing in the Veloce Lace for the last year and it's probably the best indoor shoe I've ever used. The S-72 rubber is incredible and has actually held up pretty well”
Their Instinct VSRs always hurt for the first couple of sessions, and they are dying to take them off between attempts until they break in.
Was loyal to the Vapor V in its teal/yellow version, but the latest update causes sharp pain along the outer edges of their foot, so they switched shoes.
Small waist and thick thighs, and the Luna is the harness they recommend for that fit.
With very wide feet, finds the Instinct VSR an amazing fit, though says it needs wide feet and a high-volume heel to work.
Owns the Phantom as their stiff pair and finds it extremely stiff; it isn't really for their style, and they prefer the Zenist and Shaman.
Bought the Rover a full size above street size and by the fourth session it was far too big, with dead space in the toe box hurting their edging; would go no more than half a size up.
“I was convinced to buy these at +1 greater than street shoe and by session 4, they were way too big for me. The dead space in the toe box was preventing me from edging on small feet already.”
Finds the toe box of their Shaman Pro extremely cramped and is considering stretching it.
Has bouldered indoors in the women's Vapor V for over a year and is due a third resole: perfect heel fit, durable, and a good balance of precision and flexibility, but their big toes are too crimped and the first two months were painful.
“What I liked about them: the heel fit was perfect, the overall durability of the shoe, the balance between precision and flexibility of the sole.”
Got the Instinct LV a couple of years ago after the Vapor V and loves it: more aggressive and precise, worth a tight fit, and it pushed them to improve their footwork; keeps the Vapor V for warm-ups.
“I was able to try them on and I immediately felt that they’re more aggressive, more precise, and I finally felt like I was choosing a shoe that warranted a bit of toe curl and a very tight fit.”
At a 28-inch waist and 24-inch thighs they're liking the Petzl Luna in medium.
Really likes the Vapor V and is on their third pair; this time took the men's/unisex version, which feels about the same, maybe slightly wider.
Uses the Vapor V for warm-ups and volume slab and the Instinct LV for everything else; the Instinct LV has been incredibly durable and is their favourite shoe of all time.
Just received the Instinct VSR: the length is right, but there is an air pocket at the heel on one side, and they are considering swapping to the LV.
Finds the LV version of the Instinct VSR fits their heel slightly better: the regular VSR's heel is baggy-ish even one size down, while the LV works with just a one-size downsize.
Had to downsize their Drago LV aggressively and go through a miserable break-in before the heel fit properly; La Sportiva heels have always fit them better.
Veloce Lace is very comfortable and the best fit so far for their wide feet and narrow heel.
Phantoms fit their wide feet with narrow heel great.
Double velcro and heel cup feel super secure on steep volumes, but toes are in constant pain and the thin rubber worries them.
Their Drago XT is still on its original soles while a friend's pair has been resoled four times.
Defy has been a solid, comfortable, not-too-aggressive first shoe with a wide toe box.
With curvy measurements, the Petzl Luna is the only harness they found that truly fits.
Being fairly curvy, they use the Beal Morpheus (or Edelrid harnesses) and find its adjustment range works.
Likes their Petzl Luna harness.
With small-waist, bigger-thigh proportions, the Luna is one of the two harnesses that work best for them, and great.
Has similar measurements (small waist, thick thighs) and uses the Luna.
Defys were their steady warm-up and comfort shoes, sending 5.11s in them.
Shaman 2S is very comfortable with great performance, barely any break-in, good smearing and edging; sticky once broken in.
Has long, narrow feet and the Butora Gomi fits them well, though they downsize more than friends with wider feet.
Recently got Scarpa Origin VS LVs in 42.5 and they fit better than the shoes they wore before.
The Remora Pro HV, half a size up, fits their Roman-type feet like a glove.
Switching from Skwamas to the VSR, they sent several V6s in under five attempts each.
New Momentums run much bigger than the old ones: went from EU 41 to EU 39.
Drone CS HV fit is near perfect and a great indoor all-rounder, but the soft rubber quickly loses its edge.
Moved to Phantom LVs from Drone CS LVs; brutal break-in but happy with fit and edging, and they don't stink.
VSRs were a step up from Veloces for standing on smaller edges; smearing was a learning curve.
Never had slipping issues in the VSR, finds them very grippy, but they're less good for smearing.
Has been loving the Petzl Luna they got in early July with no issues; the leg loops use metal hardware instead of plastic.
Has climbed many double-digit boulders of all styles in the Drago.
Their D2.ONE HV fits very snug with no hot spots.
Used to climb only in VSRs and liked them, but now prefers the stickier Veloce; VSRs need a little adjustment yet are still very capable.
Loves their Instinct VSRs for footwork.
First sessions in new VSRs felt horrible and they kept slipping coming from Veloces.
Climbs in the Instinct VS rather than the softer VSR and has never met a boulder they couldn't do for lack of friction on a volume, at most needing extra tries; soft shoes leave their toes sore on small footholds.
After a dozen models over 9 years, Dragos suit their wide feet best; short break-in and climbed 5.13c/V9 in them.
Loved the Instinct VSR until the toe box gave them painful knuckle calluses.
Friction is great on their VSR LVs, but rough gym walls and volumes eat the rubber; stretched about half a size.
The leg-loop buckle on their BD Momentum harness broke after only a month and a half.
Positive about their D2.ONE HV.
Says Gomis fit like a glove with great heel adjustment and stick to anything; the only con is the rubber wears out fast.
Loves their Gomis for overhangs and smearing, with great toe and heel hooks, but they're very soft and feel bad edging on slab.
Instinct VS gives great lockdown for them; the Vapor heel was baggy by comparison.
Short positive review of their Shaman 2S.
Recommends the Shaman Pro they wear for wide feet.